Mile 1,727...Ashland, OREGON!!!

Just realized there's a laptop where we're staying here at the Ashland Hostel (which is lovely, by the way) & it'll let me post some pictures!  We've made it safe & sound to Ashland, Oregon & we are happy to be here...just in Oregon in general.  This is the first time we've ever set foot in Oregon & we have heard so many wonderful things & so far, so good.

Let me start where I last left off:  We walked out of Etna, into smoke from the nearby wildfires & it made for some rough breathing, but overall, it was lovely trail. So beautiful. Glad we didn't have to skip it (as some others did).  Unicroc spotted a bear in a tree after hearing some shuffling about from something clearly larger than a squirrel.  He saw it right before it dropped to the ground & ran in the other direction...I didn't get to see it, but I heard it... 

Before I share this story, let me say that on this trail, we have experienced SO many lovely, sunshiny, blue-sky days.  At some point, I'd stopped really thinking about weather because the sun just always seems to shine out here.  The night before we arrived in Seiad Valley, though, we hiked through a VERY powerful storm - a ton of big fat rain, hail, lightning & thunder - but thankfully we were already headed down a long descent so we were well protected in the woods.  We just continued hiking & did 4 miles as quickly as our feet would take us.  There was a rustic campground at the end of that 4 miles where we were able to seek shelter under the roof of an outhouse, which is where we found Jon, Bryce & Hannah & then Katie eventually showed up as well.  Inside the outhouse was warm & surprisingly clean & we all considered sleeping in there, but all decided eventually that that was just too weird.  Eventually we all built up the courage to brave the rain & set up our tents & by this time we were all soaked & cold.  Unicroc & I made our dinner under the roof of the outhouse & shared a Bud-Light given to us by a fellow car-camper.

60 miles after Etna, the trail then went directly through the small town of Seiad Valley, CA which had a Post Office, a hiker-friendly RV park & a cute little restaurant. We discovered on our way hiking into Seiad that we weren't actually in California anymore...we were in "The State of Jefferson," or at least that's what the locals called it.

As we were leaving Seiad Valley, one last reminder that we were not really in "California"

Seiad Valley was our last stop in California...next would be Ashland...in OREGON.

The climb out of Seiad Valley was one of the PCT's last super large climbs but to be honest, it just felt good to be climbing.  The trail has hugely mellowed out & has been physically less demanding lately & so when it gives us challenges, we get excited.  We were warned as we were leaving town that more storms were on the way, but a group of us left anyway because that's just the name of the game out here.  You can't hide from it - you just gotta make sure you're as prepared as possible.  But, no storms came - we just watched as they floated around in the distance & we had a lovely, nice & cool evening hike.

Two days later, we were 30 miles before the Oregon border & I woke up thirsty for the border - I realized I wanted to see it that night! We had told ourselves we would never hike a 30-mile day because it's just too freaking fast...but my mind was made up that morning that I wanted to see Oregon. So we did. At this point, our bodies are basically in what we call "Auto Pilot," we can walk & walk & then hours later we'll eventually remember that we're walking but we still get pretty tired after 22+ mile days. But on this day, we kicked it into gear & went for it...& we arrived at the border just before dark, where we found Hot Tub & Sweet Tooth celebrating.  My full dream was to SLEEP on the border of CA & OR...& we did that, too, even though there wasn't exactly a comfy place to sleep. We threw out our mattress pads & sleeping bags & slept with our heads in Oregon & our feet in California.  We didn't get the best night's sleep but it was well worth it & as people came to the border first thing in the morning, we got to celebrate with them, too.

Terminal Geyser in Lassen Volcanic National Park

Burney Falls at Burney Falls State Park - absolutely blew us away

I got my second pair of $140 shoes (on bottom) & Unicroc got new $2 insoles (on top) in Mt. Shasta

Mt. Shasta - the most beautiful mountain I have ever seen with my own eyes - a 14,000+ ft. volcano that we will someday come back & climb (apparently much more challenging to climb than Mt. Whitney - the highest peak in the continental U.S.)

Sunset in the wildfire smoke

Marble Mountain Marvel at the Soda Fountain in Etna

Our campsite on the border of California & Oregon

On this trail, we have become the dirtiest, stinkiest people we've ever been in our lives.  It's a lot of fun to see the dirt go down the drains as we shower.  Our last shower before this was Mt. Shasta - over 200 miles ago.  And we still love each other.  And our trail friends still hug us.  These are good people.

Today is our zero day & we'll be leaving town on Wednesday.  Unicroc has a new pack coming because his frame broke & he's been walking with it that way for almost 80 miles!  Deuter is sending him a new one for free & he's super pumped to receive it.  Hope the package makes it here by then so we can head on to Crater Lake!!!!!!

Randy & Vicky, here is a back-up place where you can send that package in case it won't make it to Crater Lake in time!  ETA for Sisters would be Monday 8/26 & they ask that you write that on the box:

c/o Sisters Inn
525 US Hwy 20 West
Sisters, OR 97759

Thank you!  Much, much love.